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The entrance to the exhibit features a painted weeping willow, which
represents mourning.
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In an interesting
juxtaposition of “mourning as fashion”, the exhibit explores the custom during
the 1800’s and early 1900’s of elaborate funerary dress governed by the strict grieving
etiquette of the upper class, primarily in England and the United States.
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(L) American or European
tail coat of black wool broadcloth circa 1830, and child’s silk mourning dress
of black silk crepe circa 1830; (R) American mourning wear of black silk crepe,
taffeta, and straw circa 1845.
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Although social conventions
of the time required black clothing as acceptable mourning wear, many of the fashions
on display were far from somber, exhibiting fanciful beadwork, fine lace, lush
velvets, brocades, and other elaborate accessories worn by the well to do -- including
hats trimmed with large ornamental feathers or an entire perched bird, finely embroidered
gloves and silk fans, and black lacy parasols with fringed tassels.
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Charlotte Duclos Mourning
Dress, 1910-12 (left-center). Black silk
chiffon, charmeuse and tulle, trimmed in jet and glass beads. A close-up reveals its fine embroidered
beadwork.
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(L) American wedding
ensemble of half-mourning, 1868. Gray
silk wool and black silk faille, worn by Amelia Gray Carey in West Virginia, in
honor of fallen soldiers during the Civil War. (R) James McCreery & Company
half-mourning dress circa 1894-96. Purple wool twill, with purple, black and
white velvet, silk satin and faille, and gold metallic thread.
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Among the royals, there
were several opulent ball gowns of “half-mourning” – including a pale mauve silk
tulle evening gown by couturier Henrique Favre.
Layered with shimmery metallic sequins and deeply scooped décolletage,
the court dress was worn by Queen Alexandra in 1902, a year after Queen
Victoria’s death.
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Opulent purple and lavender dresses of half-mourning worn at
court. The lavender gown was worn by
Queen Alexandra, a year after Queen Victoria’s death.
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In a small side room,
several examples of memento mori jewelry
were on display including a heavy necklace of black Whitby jet chain links suspended
with carved pendants, small lockets which held a strand of hair or colorfully painted
miniature of a departed loved one, enameled rings engraved with a weeping willow,
tomb stone, or other symbols of grief, and other sentimental keepsakes that
could be worn or carried.
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(L) Gold mourning locket with pearls and plaited hair; (C) Jet and gold
link necklace with cameo and seed pearls; (R) Hairwork bracelet with portrait
of Lady Susan Murray, 1826.
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The exhibit only runs
through February 1, 2015, however, if you’re unable to visit, the museum is digitizing
several outfits from the collection and making them available for online
viewing.
If you’re in town and want
to see how Victorians once “lived”, check out this interesting exhibit.
